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This year has been unbelievable in terms of swell size and wave quality: in 15 years of surfing, I haven’t seen so many big swells hitting our reefs so many times… nearly one every other week, if not every week for the last 6 months!

If you’ve surfed big waves on a reef break, you know what it feels like: lots of water moving, lots of energy rising, and lots of butterflies flying (in your belly). To me, going out on big days is a challenge, and I have to admit that those sessions are not my favorites. On big days I feel all this energy surrounding me, and I notice the sharp reef underneath my board (“Huh, pretty shallow today!”). I’m always on guard wishing that I won’t get caught inside by the BIG sets (of course the kind of stuff that happens to me ALL THE TIME), even tho I mostly paddle for the medium waves; the boys can have the bigger ones, it’s all good with me!
And last weekend, guess what? It was big again! I parked my car in front of the break, and saw those 7 to 9 footers coming through. I stayed there for 20 long minutes, trying to make a decision: “Oh no, it is big… Should I try though? I don’t know. Maybe not. I’m tired of getting pounded all the time. Plus I’ll have to paddle 1 mile to get there… to finally end up getting worked. I’m not doing this”. I was about to leave when a friend of mine showed up in his 4WD, ready to put his jet ski in the water.
“Hey Vainui, I give you a lift, come surfing with me”, my buddy said.
I thought: “crap, can’t use the “I don’t want to paddle” excuse anymore, there’s a ski right there!” And I tried to find any other possible excuse not to go: “I don’t know, I’m a bit tired, and it looks like there’s lots of current; plus it’s far from being perfect. I’m not really in the mood for this. And it looks big… and I have a brand new board, I don’t want to break it the first day.” (yes, really, any possible excuse).

My friend looked at me with a smile (definitely meaning: “I know what you’re trying to do”), looked at the waves for a few minutes and told me:
“Ok you’re right, it’s big, there’s lots of current and it’s far from being perfect. For sure we are going to get worked. But there are waves. So put your bikini on and hop on the ski. I’ll keep an eye on you.“
Eeekkk, I don’t know…
“Hurry, I’m not going to wait for you forever, grab your stuff and come.”
I reluctantly grabbed my board and jumped on the ski, thinking “What am I doing? I’m out of my mind… for sure I am the silliest person I know.”
As my friend was attaching his jet ski to the buoy, I kept my eyes on the waves: “Yes, it’s big, really… there’s some smaller waves, but when it gets big, it is BIG…”
It was too late to turn around; I waxed my brand new 6’3” (just for your information, the guy decided to ride his 7’0”) and jumped in the water.
Just after a few minutes one wave came. My friend told me: “Ok Vai, this one’s for you!”
Huh, this one? For me? Hhhhaaaaaa, no, I don’t want it!!!!
“Go, go, go, you’re in the right spot, just paddle and DON’T stop paddling. Go!!”
I stopped thinking and just paddled as fast as I could, I didn’t want to take off late on this one. I remember paddling with so much strength and all of a sudden feeling all the power and the energy of the waves pushing me. It was big and powerful, and I could feel it in my whole body. And even though I had lots of speed it felt like time was slowing down. Such a weird feeling… such an adrenaline rush… and such a relief to make it!!!

I caught a few more, surfed every wave, but decided to go back in before getting hurt. I was still nervous, and this was not a very good sign; I had caught my waves, and that was enough for that day.
My friend joined me about 30 minutes later:
“See? You did it, you overcame your fears. Good job.”
Yes, I made it, without getting caught inside. And it felt good. I felt like I was able to go beyond what I thought were my limits, at least once in my life.
As I was walking back to my car in the dark, my friend Petero who owns the surf lodge right in front of the break called me to share a few drinks with him.
I walked all the way to his place, took a hot shower and joined him on his veranda facing the break; he had everything ready for me: snacks and cocktail (I looove my buddies). I sat down, feeling so happy, content, excited, and proud of what I had just done…
Then Petero sat down next to me and said: “You’re crazy to go surfing these waves!”
And I just smiled, feeling even better…
-Vainui
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